Stop hunting for fixes.Ask Gus.
The pocket specialist for pinball maintenance and know‑how.
Which machine are we talking about?
Got it: Sega's Batman Forever (1995). Its flippers are known for being weak, and the most common report is the right one not making the left ramp. Check in this order:
- Anything binding or rubbing in the mechanism
- The link and the pawl: on this game they wear early
- The coil stop: make sure it hasn't come loose or mushroomed
- The coil sleeve
- The voltage: about 50 V at the coil
- Last, the coil's resistance
Want me to go into detail on any of these steps?
Let's go in order, starting with the mechanism. Turn the game off and unplug it. Lift the playfield and move the flipper slowly by hand: it should travel all the way and spring back on its own, with no tight spots. If it catches, check that the plunger slides freely in the sleeve, that the link isn't catching on the bracket, and that no screw or piece of rubber has fallen in. From the top, make sure the bat doesn't rub the playfield: it needs a little up-and-down play. Don't oil anything.
Then on to the link and the pawl. Take the link off and look at its hole: if it's oval, or the pawl is worn where it meets the link, replace both. On this machine, they're the usual suspects.
Generic guesses.
Gus gets it right.
Same question, very different answers.
General illumination usually runs on separate circuits, each protected by a fuse. Check the lighting fuses on the power board, see whether that board's connectors are corroded or burned, and check the bulbs and the wiring. If that doesn't fix it, look for a specialized technician.
- Doesn't talk about the T2
- No exact fuses or connectors
- Ends with “find a technician”
On an early WPC game like T2, one dead lighting string is almost always a fuse, a burned or loose connector, or even a broken wire somewhere. Let's check it step by step:
- First, the fuse: with the game off, take the backglass out very carefully (backglasses are works of art 😉). On the power driver board, test the GI fuses, F106 to F110. How to test a fuse
- If it's not that, on to connectors J120 and J121: if they're browned or loose, replace both the header pins and the housing.
- Still nothing? With the game on, measure at the string's plug: about 6 VAC means the board is fine.
That leaves a broken wire under the playfield, or dead bulbs.
- Goes straight to the cause
- Step by step, in order
- Says what to check if it doesn't work
Sample conversation.
Every machine gets its own page.
Create your spaces and add your machines. How about a space called Home, with all your machines registered, so you can keep track of everything about them?
- Flipper coil090-5020-30-ND
- Left flipper rebuild kit500-6307-10
- Right flipper rebuild kit500-6307-00
- Coil sleeve545-5388-00
- Flipper rubber545-5277-00
- Slimer motor041-5132-01
- Slimer opto board520-6999-03
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Yes. Double-check before you act, and always turn the machine off before working on it.
